Pick a colour. The page changes, like the app does.
Officially? A wall of jargon. To most people? Absolutely nothing. That's exactly why we built the app.
Plug into any code reader and you'll get the same line every other app shows you. Technically correct. Practically useless.
"Your diesel particulate filter (DPF) has collected more soot than the car is happy with. The DPF traps soot and burns it off now and then in a regeneration. On longer, steady runs some of that happens on its own. When the filter gets full, the ECU tries an active regen, raising exhaust heat to burn the soot off, but it needs a decent run to finish. Short trips are the classic cause, because regens keep getting cut short. If your driving is mostly long runs, look for something stopping the regen instead: another fault code, a pressure sensor or its pipes reading wrong, or an EGR, injector or thermostat problem. Caught early, a steady run often clears it. Left too long, it's a garage job."
Worth checking in roughly this order. Don't jump straight to the expensive fix:
The code itself is a snapshot. The fault sets after the car's watched the numbers over a whole drive cycle. Here's what's worth keeping an eye on:
Live simulation on the readings our free demo drive supports. This is how the app’s dials move.
Codes rarely tell the whole story. The clever part is reading them together, and against your exact car. Here's the kind of thing it catches:
Your diesel particulate filter (DPF) has collected more soot than the car is happy with. The DPF traps soot and burns it off now and then in a regeneration. On longer, steady runs some of that happens on its own. When the filter gets full, the ECU tries an active regen, raising exhaust heat to burn the soot off, but it needs a decent run to finish. Short trips are the classic cause, because regens keep getting cut short. If your driving is mostly long runs, look for something stopping the regen instead: another fault code, a pressure sensor or its pipes reading wrong, or an EGR, injector or thermostat problem. Caught early, a steady run often clears it. Left too long, it's a garage job.
Yes, it's safe to drive, and the right drive is often the cure. Around 10 to 20 minutes at a steady 40 mph or more, ideally on a dual carriageway or motorway, gives the filter the chance to burn off its soot. If the DPF light stays on after a steady run, get it checked soon. If the car is already down on power, stay off fast roads. Driving on with a badly blocked DPF can turn a cheap fix into a far bigger bill.
Often, if you catch it early and nothing else is wrong. Around 10 to 20 minutes at a steady 40 mph or more, ideally on a dual carriageway or motorway, is the usual advice. Your handbook may give its own. It won't help if another fault is blocking the regen, if the filter is past the point where the car will regen on its own, or if it's full of ash.
It's a regen a garage starts with a diagnostic tool, often with the car parked and the engine held at raised revs. How it's done varies by make. It's the next step when driving won't clear it. A good garage will also look for why it blocked, or it'll be back.
Some people find they help a lightly loaded filter regen more easily. They won't clear a badly blocked or ash-filled DPF, and they don't fix whatever is stopping the regen. Don't expect a bottle to replace a proper look.
A successful steady run costs you some diesel. A garage forced regen is often around £100. A professional DPF clean is often around £150 to £250, depending on the car and the method. A new DPF is the expensive end. It can be several hundred pounds with an aftermarket unit, and well over £1,000 on some cars. Removing it to save money is illegal for road use in the UK.
Free app. Plug in, and get every code in plain English, plus the connections you'd never spot.