Pick a colour. The page changes, like the app does.
Officially? A wall of jargon. To most people? Absolutely nothing. That's exactly why we built the app.
Plug into any code reader and you'll get the same line every other app shows you. Technically correct. Practically useless.
"The turbo isn't making the boost the ECU is asking for. You'll usually feel it as flat, sluggish pulling, and many cars drop into limp mode to protect themselves. The most common cause is also the cheapest: a boost leak. A split intercooler hose, a pipe that's popped off or a loose clamp lets the pressure escape before it reaches the engine. After that, look at what controls the turbo: a split vacuum hose, a sticking actuator, or on many diesels the turbo's variable vanes gummed up with soot. A faulty boost sensor, a blocked DPF or exhaust, or a worn turbo are further down the list."
Worth checking in roughly this order. Don't jump straight to the expensive fix:
The code itself is a snapshot. The fault sets after the car's watched the numbers over a whole drive cycle. Here's what's worth keeping an eye on:
Live simulation on the readings our free demo drive supports. This is how the app’s dials move.
Codes rarely tell the whole story. The clever part is reading them together, and against your exact car. Here's the kind of thing it catches:
The turbo isn't making the boost the ECU is asking for. You'll usually feel it as flat, sluggish pulling, and many cars drop into limp mode to protect themselves. The most common cause is also the cheapest: a boost leak. A split intercooler hose, a pipe that's popped off or a loose clamp lets the pressure escape before it reaches the engine. After that, look at what controls the turbo: a split vacuum hose, a sticking actuator, or on many diesels the turbo's variable vanes gummed up with soot. A faulty boost sensor, a blocked DPF or exhaust, or a worn turbo are further down the list.
Usually, yes, but gently. Most cars cut power or go into limp mode with this fault. If yours does, stay off fast roads and get it checked. If you also see heavy smoke, hear a loud new whine or the oil level is dropping, stop driving it and get it looked at, as a failing turbo can do more damage if driven on.
Not usually. Most of the time it's a leak in the pipework or a problem with what controls the turbo. The turbo itself is worth suspecting when there's whining, oil smoke or a lot of oil in the boost pipes.
A split hose can open up only under pressure or when warm, and sticking vanes or actuators can work on one drive and not the next. That's why a car can be fine for days and then go into limp mode on a hard pull.
A hose or clamp is usually a cheap part and can be a DIY job. A boost control valve or sensor is usually a modest part. Freeing up sticking vanes or replacing an actuator costs more. A replacement turbo is the expensive end, often around £1,000 fitted on everyday cars, and more on some.
Free app. Plug in, and get every code in plain English, plus the connections you'd never spot.