Pick a colour. The page changes, like the app does.
Officially? A wall of jargon. To most people? Absolutely nothing. That's exactly why we built the app.
Plug into any code reader and you'll get the same line every other app shows you. Technically correct. Practically useless.
"The ECU has seen fuel pressure drop in a way that looks like a large leak. It's mostly a diesel code, set when rail pressure falls away faster than it should for the fuel being used. First rule out a real outside leak: look and sniff for diesel around the engine, the fuel lines, the filter and under the car. If there's no outside leak, the 'leak' is often inside the system. Common culprits are injectors leaking back too much fuel, a pressure regulator or relief valve not sealing, or a supply problem such as a blocked filter or air in the fuel. A faulty rail pressure sensor can cause it too."
Worth checking in roughly this order. Don't jump straight to the expensive fix:
The code itself is a snapshot. The fault sets after the car's watched the numbers over a whole drive cycle. Here's what's worth keeping an eye on:
Illustrative panels. These readings aren’t in our free demo drive, but the app shows them live from your own car.
Codes rarely tell the whole story. The clever part is reading them together, and against your exact car. Here's the kind of thing it catches:
The ECU has seen fuel pressure drop in a way that looks like a large leak. It's mostly a diesel code, set when rail pressure falls away faster than it should for the fuel being used. First rule out a real outside leak: look and sniff for diesel around the engine, the fuel lines, the filter and under the car. If there's no outside leak, the 'leak' is often inside the system. Common culprits are injectors leaking back too much fuel, a pressure regulator or relief valve not sealing, or a supply problem such as a blocked filter or air in the fuel. A faulty rail pressure sensor can cause it too.
This can mean a fuel leak. If you smell fuel or see a leak, stop when it's safe to and don't restart the engine. Fuel on hot engine parts is a fire risk, and diesel on the road is slippery for others. With no sign of a leak, drive gently and get it checked soon, as the engine can lose power or cut out.
No. Often the leak is inside the system, such as injectors returning too much fuel, and nothing drips. That's why the first job is a careful look for an outside leak, then testing the parts inside.
A loose pipe or a fuel filter is the cheap end. A pressure sensor or regulator is mid-priced. Injectors or a high-pressure pump are the big bills and vary a lot by car. A back-leak test is usually worth paying for before buying injectors.
Free app. Plug in, and get every code in plain English, plus the connections you'd never spot.